Do you know what a dry hair shampoo is? This tool is simply necessary in the event that there is no time to bring the hair in order or there are no appropriate conditions for this, if you want to lay unruly hair. A fresh and attractive look is what gives the strands dry shampoo, and many women appreciate it for it, as well as for the fact that it is able to remove particles of dirt and dust from the head, and do not require long-term rinsing.
An interesting fact is that such a tool as a dry hair shampoo, although not in the modern world is particularly popular or common, has existed for many centuries. For the first time, they were used by our distant ancestors, who used finely milled grains, flour, starch powder and talc powder for high-quality and quick cleaning of curls. All of these substances have the ability to absorb fat and dirt from the hair, leaving them refreshed and clean. With the development of a fashionable trend began to sprinkle for cleansing the head with a specially created powder and frayed violet root. Each of these substances had to remain on the strands for a certain amount of time, after which such a “shampoo” was carefully combed out.
Modern dry hair shampoo is much more convenient, but at the same time, it has not lost its main components - crushed cereal products, turned into flour: extracts of corn, rice and oats are still used to create such cosmetics. Only the release form has changed - if previously the recipe for dry shampoo provided for preliminary crushing and grinding into powder of compressed plates, now this drug is supplied in aerosol cans. In addition to the natural components, the composition of its powder mixture includes a special absorbent substance, whose task is to absorb all the extraneous elements - particles of dust, grease and dirt.
The method of application of this kind of shampoo has not changed much since the invention of this cosmetics, if not talking about the form of release. Dry hair shampoo in a spray can must be shaken, and then sprayed over the hair at a distance of at least 40 cm and gently spread and rub into the scalp. A few (at least five) minutes later, the mixture can be removed with a comb, carefully combing the hair from the roots to the ends. Such a procedure not only helps to remove dry shampoo powder, but also allows for massage actions, which is very useful for problems with dry and dull curls. In addition, using dry shampoo powder can disinfect hair and give it a light aroma.
It is quite natural that such shampoo with all its advantages in the overwhelming majority of cases is used only as an emergency tool, when it is necessary that the hairstyle is irresistible, and there are no opportunities for that. But sometimes dry shampoo is simply indispensable - for example, during a course of treatment for oily hair, when each wash only worsens the situation. However, both greasy and dry curls that need everyday care can be cleaned with shampoo-powder in an aerosol can, which will allow them to always look healthy, voluminous and “fresh”.
Some dry shampoos can be prepared at home. For example, a great way to bring hair in order in a few minutes is the use of coarse flour and salt, a mixture of finely ground almond nuts with flour or a mixture of ground oatmeal with baking soda. And so that a haircut, refreshed with dry shampoo, remains as long as possible, you should fix it with a special tool, which is called dry hairspray, the effect of which is similar to the work of the classic “wet” varnish.
Use of shampoo: thanks to India
The word "shampoo" comes from the Indian "shampo", which means massage, rubbing. India until the middle of the last century was an English colony, so it was easy for the English to "spy" the secrets of Indian life. And they just washed their heads - with the help of soap nuts. In the 19th century, to the delight of beauties, washing off dirt with ordinary soap, one not very enterprising Englishman began to sell powder from a mixture of soap nuts and herbs. Casey Herbert did not begin to originate and called the powder "Shaempoo", but did not guess to patent this product. Pharmacists all over London, barbers, and just cunning traders instantly cut through the recipe and began to sell similar powders at all angles. And, although Casey can be safely called the discoverer of shampoo, the glory of the pioneer belongs to another person, but more on that later.
We thank female gab
The second country to use shampoo was Germany. And, thank God, because in order to wash off the unpleasant white bloom on the hair after using soap, local beauties generously poured vinegar on their heads and even gasoline!
Once (and it was at the beginning of the last century) a customer came into a small pharmacy. Ah, the owner of the pharmacy would know (Hans Schwarzkopf himself) how his life would change after this client, he would have kissed her right there! For an unhurried chatter, Frau shared her impressions of her trip to London and mentioned the wonder powder, generously praising its advantages over soap. In the head of a young and ambitious Hans immediately came up with the idea that made him a millionaire.
Thank chemistry
Hans, who had the education of a chemist and a wealth of experience with pharmaceuticals and perfumes, created his own powder. Only in spite of his London colleague the enterprising pharmacist patented the tool. His trademark is known to every modern girl - Schwarzkopf.
Powder for washing the head cost by the standards fabulous money - about 20 pfennig. But even stingy Germans were happy to fork out for the sake of convenience and beauty of hair (we suspect that the majority of buyers fell on the fair floor). It was possible to forget about the unpleasant soap bloom on the curls, which brought the powder deserved success around the world.
Use of shampoo: thanks to His Majesty Marketing
Hans, leaving his pharmacy business, devoted his life to the development of his company for the production of shampoo. And he had a lot of fantasy! Soon came violet shampoo, after it with yolk, sulfuric, saturated with oxygen, with chamomile, herbs, birch and even tar.
Just a year after the fateful chatter with a customer, Hans Schwarzkopf opened the first production of Schwarzkopf shampoos.
Shampoo: thank you for the continuity
Almost thirty years later, the son of the already deceased “King of Shampoos” developed a new product with a liquid consistency. Imagine what a breakthrough it was! Now there was no need to worry about transporting bags of powder, which were always wet, dilute the product with water before use, and what a saving of time!
The history of shampoo: praise competition
In the 1930s, the cosmetics market began to grow rapidly.
· 1930 - in the United States comes the first tool of an affordable price range.
· 1931 - Hamburg Beiersdorf Group develops the chemical formula of a shampoo.
· 1933 - Schwarzkopf launches the first alkaline free product.
· 1934 - L’Oreal presents the world a “soap-free” shampoo.
· 1936 Breck Shampoo launches its first advertising medium.
And then the pursuit of beauty and profit have done their job - now you know thousands of brands of shampoos of different composition and action.
Shampoos and myths.
Around shampoos, as, indeed, around many other cosmetics, there are many myths and opinions that are sometimes far from the truth. Therefore, it is time to find out what is true and what is fiction.
Statement 1. The larger the foam, the cleaner the hair. This is a common misconception. Foam is formed when chemicals react with air and water. If you take, for example, a shampoo that does not contain alkali, then you can see that it practically does not foam and, nevertheless, the hair after it remains clean. Ideally, the amount of foam should be such as to simply facilitate shampooing.
Statement 2. If you wash your hair every day, you can damage your hair. This is not quite true. If the hair is oily, then it is necessary to remove dirt from it every day, but your shampoo should be soft and contain moisturizing ingredients. Such as panthenol or shea butter. For those who have dry and / or damaged hair, it is better to wash your hair every other day. For all hair types, it is important to remember one thing, that the shampoo should be soft.
Statement 3. Hair get used to shampoo and after some time it is necessary to change the brand. This is a myth generated by the advertising of the mid-90s. Let's start with the fact that hair is dead cells, so in principle they cannot get used to it. Therefore, if you like the shampoo that you use, then do not give it up.
Statement 4. Adults can wash their hair with baby shampoo, as it is surprisingly soft. In fact, baby shampoo is not designed to wash dirt from the hair of an adult. And if you have used the gel, mousse or varnish, then you basically can not properly wash your hair. Although some manufacturers in bottles with baby shampoo and write that it is possible to use it for adults, if the hair is thin or the scalp is sensitive.
Statement 5. Expensive shampoos can cure damaged hair. Myth! Once again, let's return to the fact that hair is dead cells and it will not work to revive them. Shampoos can only add shine and make hair softer. But for the fact that the hair had a healthy look, you are responsible, first of all, you. Here, an important role is played by nutrition, and proper care, and ecology.
How do we buy shampoo?
Yes, very simple! At first, we are attracted to any distinguishing feature: for greasy hair, dandruff, with ginseng extract, hypoallergenic. Then smell. And finally, the design of the bottle: it's nice if it looks picturesque on a shelf in the bathroom. In fact, it is much more important how conscientiously the shampoo performs its main function - cleansing. This is where the main danger lurks.
When your familiar hairdresser claims that all samples of mass production are poured from the same container, it is not so far from the truth. It is very simple to create cheap shampoo: a vat is taken and a detergent, thickener and water are poured into it. In order for the shampoo to conform to the internationally accepted standard of dermatological softness, it is necessary to add a lot of additional components to the formulation. What kind? In this we are with you and to understand.
Shampoo is a mixture of several substances. Shampoos are designed to clean the hair and scalp, remove dirt without removing too much natural lubricant. They contain cleansing ingredients, fragrances, preservatives and conditioners that cover the hair and seal them. Conditioners smooth the cuticle, so the hair is less confused, and also removes static electricity from the hair during drying. The composition of modern shampoos often include natural oils, vitamins or other components, which, according to the manufacturers, help to strengthen the hair or are of some benefit to consumers. However, experimental evidence of this, as a rule, does not exist!
It’s hard to figure out what's what, because the three-storyed names on the labels do not say anything to the average woman, and it’s even more incomprehensible how all this affects our hair.
So, let's proceed to decoding: o)
Healing Shampoos
Given the fact that the outer part of the hair is dead - the claims of manufacturers about the shampoos regenerating abilities are somewhat evil. Some shampoos containing special proteins can strengthen the outer sheath of the hair. In principle, all these positive effects are not typical for shampoo, but for air conditioners. Medical shampoos, we will call shampoos against diseases, in particular against dandruff.
The appearance of dandruff is associated in varying degrees with seborrhea and the activity of a microscopic fungus(Pityrosporum Ovale also known as Malassezia Furfur).
Special anti-dandruff components of the shampoo are used in products with a therapeutic effect:ketoconazole, climbazole, pyroctone olamine, zinc and selenium salts, sulfur, zinc pyrithione, salicylic acid, pyricton, octopirox, tar, shale oil distillate tar, pyroctonalaline, undecylenamidopropyl trimonium methosulfate
Anti-dandruff shampoos contain substances against seborrhea (facilitate the separation of scales, reduce sebum) and antifungal components:
- Zinc Pirythione (zinc pyrithione),
- Climbazole (climbazole),
- Ketoconozole (ketoconazole),
- Selenium Disulphide (selenium disulfide)
These components have an antimicrobial action against M. Furfur, which is presumably a microbe that causes dandruff. (Zinc pyrithione is part of Head & Shoulders, Zinc Friederm, ketoconazole is part of Nizoral shampoo).
- Octopirox (Octopirox),
- Coal Tar (tar)
- Selenium Disulphide (selenium disulfide)
They have a cytostatic effect - they suppress the activity of cells producing sebum, thereby slowing down the appearance of their excess.
- Coal Tar (tar)
- Sulfur (sulfur)
- Salicylic Acid (salicylic acid)
They have a keratolytic effect, that is, the ability to exfoliate numerous layers of dead cells that form dandruff. Tar is a component of Friderm tar.
Shampoos and hair type.
Well, with the composition of shampoos, we figured out a bit. Do you think that now you can safely buy any detergent you like for the composition of the components? No matter how wrong! To begin with, it is important to determine the type of your hair, so as not to spoil everything with an incorrectly selected shampoo.
They can be normal, dry, oily or mixed.
Normal hair As a rule, they fit well, look healthy and shiny, easily combed, do not split, look alive and remain so for several days after washing.
Shampoos for normal hair do not contain no additional substancesexcept those that are designed for gentle cleansing.
Greasy hair dull, look untidy literally the day after washing; oily dandruff is a frequent occurrence.
To care for this type of hair should pay attention to soft and non-aggressive shampoosso as not to irritate the sebaceous glands and not to provoke their activity.
Special shampoos for oily hair should not be used constantly, but alternated with neutral shampoos. Means for this type of hair often contain tannin or quinine, which allows to increase the time between washing the hair, cleansing the scalp of excess fat.
Dry hair Do not have a glossy shine, look dull, often break and split. Most often, this problem is acquired due to the aggressive effects of hot irons, curling irons, hair dryers. Such hair must be constantly moisturized. Means for the care of this type of hair are composed of a large number of moisturizers that saturate the hair with moisture.
With a mixed type of hair , the roots quickly grow fat, but the tips remain dry.
To wash this type of hair should be used shampoos and soft base productsthat will regulate the activity of the sebaceous glands.For dry ends, additional moistening is necessary; for this, special masks should be applied to them.
If you have dandruff, nessesary to use special shampoo with a mark of "dandruff". It is better if this shampoo is purchased at a pharmacy. In their composition such shampoos have substances that inhibit the division of skin cells and kill the fungus that caused dandruff. There are shampoos based on pyrithione zinc (a component of our hair, has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties), tar (slows down the process of sebum secretion, cleans the skin from pollution and relieves irritation), ketoconazole (reduces sebum secretion), octopirox (has anti-bacterial properties) and miconazole, climbazole, clotrimazole (these three components restore the balance of microflora of the scalp). These specialized tools also need to be chosen depending on the type of your hair and the type of dandruff. Constantly using dandruff shampoos is also not enough treatment until the disappearance of "white scales", and then you should wash your hair with ordinary shampoo that matches your hair type, and only once a month to prevent hair rinsing with a specialized anti-dandruff shampoo.
Well, now let's summarize, for it was written a lot. Here, perhaps, the most important thing to remember is:
First of all, The quality of shampoos is regulated exclusively by such a simple and reliable parameter as the composition. Everything else - the hair splendor after washing, their resistance to dust, water repellency, etc., can take place, however, experts do not take it into account.
Serious manufacturers are not without reason argue about those or other useful properties of the product, which can not be said about cheap brands.
Secondly, claims that the shampoo is exclusively “natural” or exclusively “organic” is very conditional. Today, among the manufacturers of soapy liquid for hair, no one has yet proposed such a product without the addition of detergents. Moreover, no one has proven that the cleansing properties of herbs, fruits, vitamins and other natural ingredients are really good. Of course, these substances are useful, however, for the main task of shampoo - cleansing - do not matter.
Thirdly, shampoos do not strengthen hair, do not restore them, do not change their structure and do not provide nourishment to damaged hair. It is known that the part of the hair that starts from the surface of the skin and ends in the air above the crown, on the shoulders or in the area of the buttocks, is dead. Firming, nutrients and other substances can only be on the surface of the hair for some time. Nutrients are of primary importance for hair follicles and skin, where hair grows. The substances that cause hair growth (the most popular is Minoxidil) are usually not added to shampoos, otherwise the cosmetic is called not shampoo, but medicine in the form of a shampoo.
Fourth, Pay attention to the density of the shampoo and its mother-of-pearl look is not worth it, because these effects are created by adding special substances intended for this purpose, and not used as detergents or conditioners.
Fifth, do not buy shampoos based on ammonium lauryl sulfate or ammonium laureth sulfateThese shampoos can cause dry hair and scalp, irritation, and other unexpected effects.
Quite normal quality hair shampoos with sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate.Hair care products with TEM group sufactants are considered to be of the highest quality: TEA Lauryl Sulfate - TEA Laureth Sulfate. If a ammonium lauryl sulfate used in cheap shampoos, and more often in bath foams or shower gels, the last three detergents are used in high-quality shampoos.
If you have a tendency to allergies or sensitive scalp, you should choose shampoos without dyes and flavors.
Sixth note concerns the very washing of the head. Clean hair does not depend on the amount of shampoo poured on them and the volume of foam. Of course, the foam should be, but if you are trying to create even more foam, then the cleansing properties of the shampoo do not improve.
It is simply impossible to understand a priori whether shampoo for your head is suitable. But the result can be predicted by observing the following recommendations:
1. If your hair is very strong, healthy and strong by nature, massmarket products are perfect for you, then do not worry about the composition of the shampoo. The main thing is your own feelings.
But if your hair is thin, fragile or weakened by perm, dyeing, styling, then you should carefully consider the choice of a gentle shampoo. As a rule, it will be more expensive shampoo - pharmaceutical or from a professional series. This tool is different:
- moderate or weak washing ability (it will be necessary to wash the head in such a shampoo 2 times, because the surfactants in its composition are soft),
- weak foaming,
- lack of smell (or it may be weak and not particularly pleasant),
- transparency or lack of pronounced perlamytrovogo shade. Select well-known brands of well-known manufacturers. Fame does not mean that the manufacturer gives advertising on television. The presence of the manufacturer’s address on the package is important.
2. Pay attention to the main detergent, if it is used cheap, then the chances that after several washings the hair will become dry and brittle, are large enough. If you have already bought such shampoo and do not want to part with the bottle, then do not use it every day.
3. From the good of good not looking. So, if this or that shampoo suits you, you should not change it for another. Experiments with the head are not prohibited, but the experimenter usually suffers.
4. Shampoo is not the only hair care product. Weak hair is most often not the result of a wrong choice of shampoo, but of hypovitaminosis, iron deficiency anemia, disorders of the gastrointestinal tract and other organ systems.
Listening to these tips and having tried several types of a shampoo, you will definitely find what your hair needs.
And lastly, I want to offer you a small (but very informative) video from the stylist Oksana Breusova about hair shampoos:
Types of washing bases (surfactants)
Sulphate. Lauryl sulfate (SLS or SLES) is used as active ingredient. Advantages: it forms a thick foam, perfectly cleanses hair from fat, it turns out affordable shampoo. Disadvantages: irritates the scalp. With frequent use, the hair begins to "crumble", dandruff appears, the head itches and quickly gets salted.
How to find out: Ammonium Lauryl (laureth) Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl (laureth) Sulfate will be indicated in the list of ingredients
There are softer variations - TEA and DEA, but they also cause damage to the hair, albeit to a lesser extent.
Soap or amphoteric. Advantages: does not violate the pH of the scalp, has regenerating properties. Disadvantages: weakly foams, expensive, rarely found in its pure form, often acts as a second component in the sulfate base.
How to find out: in the list of ingredients is Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Decyl polyglucose, Glyceret Cocoat, Sodium Sulfosuccinate.
Thickeners, preservatives, colors and flavors
Without thickeners, shampoo will be too liquid and inconvenient to use. This category includes Kokamid DEA, Kokamid MEA, Linoleamide DEA, etc.
Thanks to preservatives, the product is stored for several years and does not deteriorate. This group includes: Parabens, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinol, sodium benzoate, DMDM-hydantoin. It is believed that the preservatives in the composition of the shampoo are dangerous, but many of them are completely natural elements, in addition, microorganisms will develop without preservatives, the harm from which will be much more substantial.
Dyes and flavors are optional, but desirable, because it is much more pleasant to lather your head with a thick composition of pearly-milky color and smelling like roses than with a little bit of a pungent chemical smell.
Additional components. This category includes ingredients that are “handed down” to the label and take on the role of UTP (unique selling proposition) brands, or if it is simpler, a marketing ploy for increasing sales. At the same time, not all of them really benefit the hair and often play the role of a “wedding general” - that is, they do not have exactly any effect.
Useless substances in shampoos
- Silicone. Advertising says that silicone "smoothes" the hair, makes them shine. In fact, if there is an effect, it is very short-lived, but, while accumulating, silicone makes the hair heavier; over time, the head looks untidy and dirty even immediately after washing.
- Vitamins. It is necessary to take orally in the form of tablets, from a five-minute contact with the hair and scalp there will be no positive result.
- Fruit acids. The same as with vitamins: benefits, only with direct use.
- Antioxidants. The hair does not have wrinkles, against which this active ingredient is directed.
- Herbal extracts. It makes sense only if their mass fraction exceeds at least 25-30% (this happens, but rarely).
- SPF and Thermo - components that protect the hair from ultraviolet radiation. Act exactly the time while on the hair - that is, 15 minutes in the shower. Draw your own conclusions.
Useful material
- Anti-dandruff ingredients (ketoconazole, pyroctonolamine, tar, zinc pyrithione, etc.). Most often are part of therapeutic shampoos sold in a pharmacy.
- Moisturizing additives (hyaluronic acid, lanolin, glycerin, ceramides and others).
- Collagen and keratin - restore damaged hair and give volume.
Harmful substances
Seeing the following components in the composition, think carefully before purchasing a shampoo.
- Mineral oil (mineral oil). Let not harmless name, in fact, it is a harmful substance that is not absorbed into the skin, but hardens with a thin film and prevents hair from “breathing”.
- Formaldehydes. There is no consensus about them, but many scientists argue that this substance is harmful to health, it is better to be safe.
What else can be included in hair shampoos?
Examine the label carefully. There can meet:
- Ethanol is ethyl alcohol, it is needed for better dissolution of additives (in other words, so that the liquid turns out to be thicker and more uniform).
- Sodium Chloride - regular table salt, thanks to which shampoo foams better.
It turns out that a useful and high-quality shampoo with a minimum content of harmful substances looks unattractive: it is a liquid composition with an unpleasant smell, badly foaming and washing the hair from the second or third time. You can buy it at a pharmacy or a professional cosmetics store.
